Saltcorner
By Bob Goemans
By Bob Goemans
Not Reef Tank Suitable
Not Suitable for Fish-Only Tank
Those under this heading are often used to host clownfishes, or serve as interesting centerpieces for some aquariums. Either way, they are often large, and require well-lighted and at least 100 gallon systems to adequately maintain.
Clownfish domination of host anemones is simply nature's way of providing a place for their survival. In the wild, very large anemones can be found with hundreds of different types of clownfish living in a symbiotic relationship with "their" anemone. With lots of anemones to go around in the wild, the living conditions are quite different than in the aquarium. With only one anemone in the aquarium, the strongest clownfish will dominate and weaker ones will be driven out. If all the clownfish are added at the same time there is a better chance they will all settle down and live together in the same anemone. I find long tentacle Pacific anemones are by far the best choice for keeping clownfish happy and healthy. However, keep in mind the anemone must be of sufficient size, i.e., at least 5 inches (12.5 cm) across, or the clownfish may cause such disturbance that the anemone is unable to feed itself.
Two of the best publications to view most of the anemones of interest are: "Field Guide to Anemonefishes and their Host Sea Anemones" by Daphne Fautin and Gerald Allen, and "Sea Anemones...as a hobby" by U. Erich Friese.
When it comes to selecting anemones, always make sure their coloration is very good, their central orifice is not misshaped, the foot area and tentacles are sticky, and that the shop clerk does not damage the foot area when removing it from the store tank. Many of the more popular anemones need good lighting intensity to survive, i.e., 4 - 6 watts per gallon. As for water temperature, that's generally in the 75 - 82°F (24 - 27°C) range unless noted differently below, with salinity between 1.024 - 1.027. Also, good water movement is usually a key component for long-term success.
As for feeding, small pieces of silversides, shrimp, krill, and fresh fish flesh, and/or whole fishes fed once to three times a week mostly suffice. Place the food morsel on the tentacles or near the central orifice. Only one anemone per tank is recommended unless the aquarium is over 100 gallons in size. And, keep in mind aggressive stony corals such as Euphyllia and Galaxea with long sweeper tentacles and large soft coals such as leather corals that compete for space with chemicals are not good tankmates.
Host anemones of great interest are the bubbletip Entacmaea quadricolor, or the more erect column anemone Heteractis magnifica, as are the long tentacle anemones, Macrodactyla doreensis, and what are called carpet anemones with even longer tentacles, e.g., Stichodactyla mertensii, Stichodactyla haddoni, Stichodactyla gigantea. There are also some other sea anemones of interest, and those are included below.
To repeat here, as many in this portion of the Library are maintained purposely in hobbyist aquariums, light intensity and the strength of water movement is paramount to their well being. Therefore I'll repeat light intensity and the strength of water movement as denoted in the opening to the Anemone Section of the Species Library;
As to PAR impact, there are shallow water/fringing reef stony corals/anemones that require certain levels light to remain healthy/colorful, such as a PAR value of about 400 - 800. Then there are soft and stony corals/other animals liking medium light, such as a PAR value in the range of 100 - 400. As for the low light corals, such as mushrooms and others, they prefer a PAR value of about 50 - 100. For water motion, I've decided to relate it to the visible intensity of water motion on that of a long tentacle anemone. No visible tentacle motion is '0,' whereas a slight movement of some tentacles is '1.' If all the tentacles are gently swaying in the current it is '2.' If all tentacles are moving fairly fast and bouncing into each other it is '3.' Should all tentacles be driven with such force they are extended in one direction or unable to sway back to their central position it's '4.' Try to keep these values in mind, but if necessary revert back to this paragraph, as you will see them as - PAR - XXX & WM - X. Hopefully you'll find this quite helpful.
