Saltcorner
By Bob Goemans
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Bob Goemans corresponds with Greg Vontz

Greg Vontz writes...

Hi Bob:

You and your publications were very helpful with a recent algae problem I had. I thought I had solved the problem only to find out that it has come back. I recently tried adding a small power compac light in my sump along with some macro algae in hopes that it would consume any additional nitrogen waste. It seemed to work beautifully for about a month being run at night. Now the macroalgae is rapidly diminishing, possibly from lack of nitrogen. As the macroalgae has died off in the sump, the algae has begun to creep back in the tank on the glass and live rock. Is it possible the algae in the tank is starving out the algae in the sump?

Realizing that its very hard to make any kind of diagnosis via email I thought perhaps I could share enough data with you in hopes that there might be something I have overlooked. Here goes:

* 135 gal reef tank with plenum per your design

* Top of the line ETS protein skimmer

* Controller with seasonal lighting and temperature programmed (chiller to maintain temp)

* Eco Aqualizer

* 10K metal halide lighting (2 bulbs 175 watts) and 4 power compacts 6700s

* Calcium reactor - carbonate hardness steady at 12, calcium steady at roughly 430 PPM

* ORP runs about 445 naturally

* No measurable nitrates, phosphates, silicates (this may be due to poor assay or consumption of nitrates, etc by existing algae)

* RO/DI raw water supply

* 14" of marine fish in tank (slightly over your recommendation, but all are small fish - purple tang 2" is the largest

* 50 plus snails to combat algae

* No evidence of die off from fish or snails to fuel algae growth

* Mysis shrimp feed once per week in extremely small amount

* All inverts and LPS and SPS corals growing nicely and very healthy

The live rock in the upper portion of the tank is covered with a very short dense olive drab hair algae and I have a very small and stubborn diatoms on the glass. I have also tried scrubbing individual pieces of live rock only to have the algae return. Note, no chemicals were used on the live rock, only mechanical scrubbing. I am considering trashing my live rock and starting over.

Any thoughts or guidance you might have would be greatly appreciated. Alternatively if there is an internet/mail order source of live rock you might recommend I would appreciate that as well.

Thanks in advance for your help. In quest of a clean tank,

Greg Vontz

Bob replies...

Hi Greg.

I've heard this often over the past number of years and can only say that if you control phosphates from the beginning, algae will be far from any kind of serious matter. What I'm about to recommend is something that you may find difficult to follow though on, but I know it works, and works well!

The best phosphate removing product that I know of, and I now have all the scientific data on each brand, is a product called ROWAphos. It comes from Germany, and is available through a company called D&D aquarium Solutions (www.d-daquariumssolutions.com) that is located in the U.K. Suggest getting a 5 liter amount.

The product is a ferric hydroxide material (iron-based product). It differs from other similar material sold here in the U.S. as it is specifically treated in a patented process to increase its absorbability. I would venture a guess its about 40% better than the U.S. brands. Anyway, it's a must in my opinion it be used correctly or you're wasting money, i.e., in a canister filter. I suggest a Fluval 404 for you, which has three internal baskets. Fill the lower basket with your choice of activated carbon (I use the brand from ESV) in a sack of course, and also cut up a Poly-Filter into small pieces. That fills the first basket. In the middle basket place a layer of filter fluff and spread four table spoons of ROWAphos over the filter fluff. Cover the media with another shallow layer of filter fluff. Do the same in the top basket. Start the canister filter and in about 30 - 40 days most of the algae in the aquarium will have dissipated. It has worked for me, my clients, and many of my readers. Change the media when there is the first sign of any phosphate reading on your test kit. Suggest you use only the Salifert test kit.

If for some reason you can't get the ROWAphos, you can use either the Two Little Fishes or Marc Weiss media, however, increase the amount used.

Give this a try, as I'm fairly sure you'll be one of the growing converts to this product!

Hope this helps,

Bob

Keywords:

Phosphates; Algae Control

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